Textile Additives: A Challenge for Recycling

Textile additives can generally be classified into two main categories: chemical additives and sustainable alternatives. These substances are used to enhance properties such as color fastness, water resistance, flame retardancy, and antimicrobial protection.
However, their environmental impact varies significantly.

1- Chemical Additives  

Chemical additives are extensively utilized in the textile industry to enhance the functional properties of fabrics. However, their application often raises significant environmental and health concerns. For example, formaldehyde is employed to impart wrinkle resistance but is known to pose respiratory hazards. Phthalates, used predominantly in plastics, exhibit toxicological effects, while per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs), which confer water repellency, are highly persistent in the environment and pose serious ecological risks. Furthermore, azo dyes and brominated flame retardants have been identified as potential sources of carcinogenic and toxic emissions. In addition to these adverse impacts, the presence of such chemicals complicates the recycling and sustainable management of textile materials.

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2- Sustainable Additives 

The textile industry is increasingly seeking more sustainable and environmentally friendly additives to mitigate the harmful effects of conventional chemicals. Bio-based finishes, such as plant-derived oils and proteins, have gained popularity due to their lack of persistent residues. Enzymatic treatments, utilizing biological catalysts, modify fabric properties without introducing pollutants. Chitosan, extracted from crustacean shells, serves as a natural antimicrobial agent, while plant-based waxes and water repellents are being developed as alternatives to PFAS compounds. These sustainable substitutes not only preserve fabric functionality but also facilitate improved recyclability and environmental compatibility.

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Current Solutions and Innovations

In response to the challenges posed by chemical additives, researchers are exploring the development of additive-free textiles by utilizing fibers such as hemp and wool, which possess inherent antimicrobial properties. Additionally, bioengineered materials—such as spider silk-inspired fibers—are being investigated as high-strength, highly elastic alternatives that eliminate the need for synthetic additives. In another approach, biodegradable and non-toxic substitutes, including plant-based natural dyes, are being developed to replace synthetic dyes and reduce chemical waste. Moreover, chitosan-based antimicrobial coatings derived from marine waste are emerging as sustainable options that offer protection comparable to conventional chemical agents. These innovations contribute to environmental preservation and enhance the recyclability of textile products.

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Conclusion

Advanced recycling technologies, such as enzymatic degradation for the selective removal of textile additives without damaging the fibers, and solvent-based separation techniques for extracting harmful substances, are currently under development. These methods enhance the efficiency of textile recycling and represent a significant step toward achieving a circular economy within the textile industry.